Newbie question on Wooden plug assembly/finishing

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it's handy he's the smart one

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You know, I have been using an "older" epoxy by Gudebrod.  It is a 2 part epoxy with a screw tip top that you can dispense from (like a eye dropper).  I read on another forum where a guy counts the drops  rather then using a syringe to measure.  I was skeptical, but tried it an you know... it works just fine.  I first let the epoxy sit in hot water for a few minutes to increase (or is that decrease) the viscosity, then count at least 20 drops from each part.  It mixes just fine and has the correct ratio (50/50).  I've been thinking about buying some clear bottles with similar tip tops and putting the epoxy in there and using the drip method to measure for all epoxy brands. 

Speaking of which....Which is everyone's preference for epoxy?

My favorite for is Threadmaster, although I've used Flexcoat and U-40 (these are all rod building 2-pary epoxy).

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Bruce thats an excellant idea.......you can buy those yorker caps for the bottles.......good one bro....could same me some bucks.....ill have to try it also........i use flex coat.....i havent tried any thing else if there's something better let me know.......bogan's bait and tackle builds rods i took a rod building course a couple of years ago with them and thats what they recomend......so i didnt venture off  to try anything differant.......let me know......i also use devcon 30min epoxy.... but i still favor flexcoat over devcon

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I used the drop method when I did Devcon 30 min. for a finish it does sound lame but it works if the epoxy gets too warm though it will just get too thin run out of the bottle and screw the mix up it also shortens your working time when you warm epoxy up. I measure the etex now in marked cups mix for 3-4 min. tops(any longer and it starts to gas up and you get a ton of bubbles to get rid of)then i place it poor on a piece of aluminum foil and brush on with acid brushes haven't played with rod finishes yet.I just started using the zinnser for a sealer much easier to work with and dries quicker I seal first let them dry for a couple hours then glue the weights in and let them dry for a couple of days then fix or fill any holes b-4 sanding and priming then off to another sanding and paint.I may have forgotten a step but like Salty says you kind of get into your own groove and everything just works for you,and as Handy says you do things that you say you won't do again and do it anyways

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say  how is that etex surfstix??? i never tried it......i went on line looking it up but i must have been on the wrong site shoot me a web page so im on the right track.............say funny you mention that how we do things   why just the other day i was finishing up a needle fish and getting ready to install the threw wire .....and forgot to drill out the belly weights...........i vowed id never do that again........but forgot anyway

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I was just thinking the same thing as handy whats etex.

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ETEX is short for envirotex it is a 2 part bar top epoxy it can be a PITA it has to be mixed 1:1 and can drive you crazy at first some love it some hate but alot of guys do use it I mix it in measuring  cups but syringes should work fine hobby stores carry it you can get a 40-50% coupon off on it that way if you don't like it you can toss it you do have to get used to it.I would say devcon is a little harder and more brittle finish then etex but lets just say they all look good until the first bloofish tears them up there is alot on the subject if you do a search.

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say thanks surfstix..........yea thats the stuff i was reading about.............i have to agree on the devcon ive used it on small plugs .......like on the eel head with the gags tail cause its small ...but on bigger plugs you must work fast.........i guess ill stick with my flex coat since i have a lot of it  thanks for the info....

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Anytime Handy you always help me out Thanks for all your info.

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Okay, here's a new question regarding sealing wood.  I am planning to use a mixture of 40% Boiled Linseed Oil and 60% Mineral Spirits to seal the wood on the lure kits I bought at the Somerset, NJ show.  How long do I dip, then how long do I dry, and how many times should I dip and dry to properly seal the wood (A-40, Atom Jr. and Darter models)?  Do I have the 60/40 part right as well?  Thanks.

[Out Fishing]

John there's two places here that I can point you to for information on sealing:

http://www.saltwaterplugs.com/saltyforum/index.php?topic=103.0  This was an old thread where I had posted some pictures.

Also the kit page here has some info on finishing: http://www.saltys.co/kitinstructionspage.htm


I'd dip for 10-15 minutes, let dry for 4-5 day minimum, then dip in a thin lacquer sanding sealer. You can lightly scuff that also but not necessary. Don't paint it for another 4-5 days. Let them dry good. 60/40 is fine. Add some raw tung oil in there too..