Hey guys..I'm new here, just embarking on this as a new hobby.
I have a few of Salty's wooden plug kits, but have a little confusion on the order in which you should do things.
When do you seal the wooden body with respect to epoxying in the belly weights...and the belly grommets.
Do you seal first then move on? After the belly weights are installed, or After the belly weights AND belly grommets are installed?
Thanks...looking forward to finishing these and doing a bunch more.
I glue weights in first then seal, grommets get done after they are finish coated...or sometimes people will put them in first which they are then under the paint...People do it all different ways, some like to seal first, some like to glue the stuff in first then seal.
yea like salty said........just remember to make sure the threw wire goes threw your plug in this case you can drill out the threw wire holes in the lead belly weight if need be .....before you finish the plug..... and for a classic finished belly hole use minwax high performance wood filler its a two part wood filler........dose a sweet job of filling the hole......leave it on the highside when dry sand smooth to your plug and seal your plug.......good luck richie and welcome to the site :)
GOOD POINT Bruce. I forgot about that...sometimes things are second nature and I don't think much about them anymore...like the wire.
say salt you know how many times ive made that misstake.....and said to myself ill never do that again.....and do it anyway.............. ;D
LOL never fails
One other question, regarding the nose and tail grommets...should these be epoxyed/glued in, or just held in by the through wire?
Just the through wire holds those, no need to epoxy in. Good questions btw and welcome to the forum Richie.
Just thought of a couple of other questions regarding sealing and finishing.
When you dip the wooden bodies in sealer, do you just hang them and let them drip dry...do you wip off any excess sealer first?
Also what method do most guys use, vertical or horizontal hanging.....using a piece of wire, or maybe a cup hook? I'm planning
on using the Zinsser Sanding Sealer for this step.
For the final finish coat, I'm going to use the High Build Flex Coat, I assmue this gets brushed on, and then the lure is again hung to dry.
Same question what works best vertical or horizontal hanging?
Sorry for all the stupid questions, just want to equip myself with enough information to do a decent job on my first few lures.
Thanks, Rich
Dip n drip then wipe..let it soak in.
Yes on hanging. Whatever works for you.
Yes on flexcoat..probably will need to flip..use a acid brush with the bristles cut down to 1/2 length. I sell some real nice double crimped and stapled brushes online for this...much better than the black bristle brushes. thin coats are better...
I took Handy's method for the flex coat. Use the syringes to get equal amounts. Spin it on a low rpm spinner to prevent sags. I think mine is 24 or 36 rpm. I am sure there is a time frame, I just let it go till I havta leave or go to bed. Hope it helps.
If you use syringes be very careful which ones you use...many have silicone inside them as a lube....bad bad bad
Didn't know that. Thanx. I'll make sure to get the correct ones and not just go to the hardware store. Flex coat puts out their own and they are color coded to the color on the 2 bottles.
yes those are ok. Don't remember which ones had the silicone in them maybe someone can chime in. Jamestown dist would prob sell them.
Don't know how many times it can be said. The knowledge and willingness to help on this forum are top notch.Thanks
it's handy he's the smart one
You know, I have been using an "older" epoxy by Gudebrod. It is a 2 part epoxy with a screw tip top that you can dispense from (like a eye dropper). I read on another forum where a guy counts the drops rather then using a syringe to measure. I was skeptical, but tried it an you know... it works just fine. I first let the epoxy sit in hot water for a few minutes to increase (or is that decrease) the viscosity, then count at least 20 drops from each part. It mixes just fine and has the correct ratio (50/50). I've been thinking about buying some clear bottles with similar tip tops and putting the epoxy in there and using the drip method to measure for all epoxy brands.
Speaking of which....Which is everyone's preference for epoxy?
My favorite for is Threadmaster, although I've used Flexcoat and U-40 (these are all rod building 2-pary epoxy).
Bruce thats an excellant idea.......you can buy those yorker caps for the bottles.......good one bro....could same me some bucks.....ill have to try it also........i use flex coat.....i havent tried any thing else if there's something better let me know.......bogan's bait and tackle builds rods i took a rod building course a couple of years ago with them and thats what they recomend......so i didnt venture off to try anything differant.......let me know......i also use devcon 30min epoxy.... but i still favor flexcoat over devcon
I used the drop method when I did Devcon 30 min. for a finish it does sound lame but it works if the epoxy gets too warm though it will just get too thin run out of the bottle and screw the mix up it also shortens your working time when you warm epoxy up. I measure the etex now in marked cups mix for 3-4 min. tops(any longer and it starts to gas up and you get a ton of bubbles to get rid of)then i place it poor on a piece of aluminum foil and brush on with acid brushes haven't played with rod finishes yet.I just started using the zinnser for a sealer much easier to work with and dries quicker I seal first let them dry for a couple hours then glue the weights in and let them dry for a couple of days then fix or fill any holes b-4 sanding and priming then off to another sanding and paint.I may have forgotten a step but like Salty says you kind of get into your own groove and everything just works for you,and as Handy says you do things that you say you won't do again and do it anyways
say how is that etex surfstix??? i never tried it......i went on line looking it up but i must have been on the wrong site shoot me a web page so im on the right track.............say funny you mention that how we do things why just the other day i was finishing up a needle fish and getting ready to install the threw wire .....and forgot to drill out the belly weights...........i vowed id never do that again........but forgot anyway :bash:
I was just thinking the same thing as handy whats etex.
ETEX is short for envirotex it is a 2 part bar top epoxy it can be a PITA it has to be mixed 1:1 and can drive you crazy at first some love it some hate but alot of guys do use it I mix it in measuring cups but syringes should work fine hobby stores carry it you can get a 40-50% coupon off on it that way if you don't like it you can toss it you do have to get used to it.I would say devcon is a little harder and more brittle finish then etex but lets just say they all look good until the first bloofish tears them up there is alot on the subject if you do a search.
say thanks surfstix..........yea thats the stuff i was reading about.............i have to agree on the devcon ive used it on small plugs .......like on the eel head with the gags tail cause its small ...but on bigger plugs you must work fast.........i guess ill stick with my flex coat since i have a lot of it thanks for the info.... :)
Anytime Handy you always help me out Thanks for all your info.
Okay, here's a new question regarding sealing wood. I am planning to use a mixture of 40% Boiled Linseed Oil and 60% Mineral Spirits to seal the wood on the lure kits I bought at the Somerset, NJ show. How long do I dip, then how long do I dry, and how many times should I dip and dry to properly seal the wood (A-40, Atom Jr. and Darter models)? Do I have the 60/40 part right as well? Thanks.
John there's two places here that I can point you to for information on sealing:
http://www.saltwaterplugs.com/saltyforum/index.php?topic=103.0 (http://www.saltwaterplugs.com/saltyforum/index.php?topic=103.0) This was an old thread where I had posted some pictures.
Also the kit page here has some info on finishing: http://www.saltys.co/kitinstructionspage.htm (http://www.saltys.co/kitinstructionspage.htm)
I'd dip for 10-15 minutes, let dry for 4-5 day minimum, then dip in a thin lacquer sanding sealer. You can lightly scuff that also but not necessary. Don't paint it for another 4-5 days. Let them dry good. 60/40 is fine. Add some raw tung oil in there too..